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LH door gap. The LH side of the car has tighter door gaps than the RH side, meaning the LH of the car is "squished" or something. The doors will need to be cut a little for a proper gap.
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The ground off area is where the new floor was rested on top of. There are no plug welds here. There should be.
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These circles illustrate where there should be plug welds. This flange is not attached to the rocker. It's a flange for the middle floor brace.
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Bottom LH door gap. The top part is pretty even, so the back half of the car may be a little too low, causing this gap (probably from the major surgery).
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The third RED arrow.. right next to that weld you see a bright line. This bright line is a light we're shining through from the inside. For whatever reason this isn't fully welded so we will need to weld this shut along the whole seam.
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Another brace that was cut off, needs to be cut & smoothed.
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Another view of the LH floor area. There's also a cut off brace just to the right of the X. This was likely used with a body cart or something. Needs to be cut off & smoothed.
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This area circled has no welds. It's just sitting against other sheet metal. It needs to be welded. Also note the larger gap where the outer wheel well meets the rocker.
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The quarter panels seem to bee too low compared to the trunk lid. We will need to likely modify the trunk area or just build up the quarter panels to fix this. The trunk is as low as it will go here, and still isn't flush with the top of the quarter.
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Slit from cutting into the floor during the minitub process. Needs to be welded closed.
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Close up of the RH front body mount.
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These circles illustrate where there should be plug welds. This flange is not attached to the rocker. It's a flange for a floor brace that the subframe mounted to.
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RH front firewall mount has been replaced, modified, moved, or something, at some point. It was welded 1/4" too high and 1/2" too far to the RH side, in order to be square & even with the other side, and our frame. We have not decided if we're going to modify the body or just modify the frame slightly, but would rather mod the body so it's consistent.
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The line in the middle of the photo, about an inch to the right of where the arrow is pointing.. that's a tear in the roof channel. Needs to be welded up.
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Another pic of the RH front area, showing the gap between the fender and the body where it is to be bolted on. We cannot fasten the fender to the body because of this.
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RH front, just behind the front wheels. All the marked areas have NO welds whatsoever. We will need to drill through the first layer of the flanges on the left and plug weld them. And seam weld the other areas.
Also notice the U shaped slot in the bottom of the fender, shown in the left middle of the photo.. The hole above it is where a captured nut/clip nut is attached to the body. There is about a 1" gap here. It should be within 1/4". Looks like damage at some point. This will need to be addressed, otherwise you'll have a 1-inch spacer between the body and the lower fender mount on that side. The LH side is decent enough to work with.
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This is the LH rear now. Again very little welds.
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Getting the gap even on the front valance to the hood.
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Nice gap on the back of the passenger door.
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Front sheet metal alignment - This is about the best we could do with the aftermarker panels.
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The valance was modified / rolled outward to match the passenger headlight.
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Drivers side fender and hood do not match up so well.
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The passenger fender has a large gap at the headlight trim ring. This will be modified to match the drivers side.
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Nice front door gap on driver side
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The gaps are closed nice and tight.
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These two pieces are spot welded together from the manufacturer - This will be modified to be flush with each other.
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Do you want the bumper tucked at all?
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There are 4 pieces to this puzzle. From top to bottom: Fender, inner fender, front bumper bracket, then lower valance. These do not all line up properly and will need some modifying of the mounting holes.
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There is about a 3/16" difference here. It is due to the fender. See pic 9555 for a better explanation.
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Getting the gaps set on the hood.
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Fixing the door gap on the drivers side. We cut the quarter slightly and moved the jamb back.
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